DAL
LAKE
The Dal is famous not
only
for its beauty, but for its vibrance, because it sustains within
its periphery, a life that is unique anywhere in the world. The
houseboat and Shikara communities have lived for centuries on the
Dal, and so complete is their infrastructure on the lake, that
they never have to step on land! Doctors, tailors, bakers- one can
see them all in tiny wooden shops on the lake, near picturesque
vegetable gardens and acres of lotus gardens.
NAGIN LAKE
Nagin Lake, which is usually thought of as a separate lake, is
also divided from Dal Lake only by a causeway. The causeways are
mostly suitable for walkers and bicycles only so they make a very
pleasant way of seeing the lake without having to worry about
traffic or Shikaras. The main causeway across the lake carries the
water pipeline for Srinagar's mains water supply.
THE ISLANDS
There are three main islands in the lake, each poplar
excursion points. Silver Island is at the northern end of Dal Lake
and is also known as "Char Chinar" after the four-chinar
trees, which grow on it. There's a small snack bar on the island
as there is also on Gold Island at the south end of the lake. It
is also known as "Char Chinar" for it too has four
Chinar trees.
The third island is Nehru Park, at the end of the main stretch of
the boulevard and only a short distance from the shore. It too has
a restaurant although it's a very run down, miserable affair. The
children's playground here has also seen better days. Often in
summer there are evening shows, dances and festivals held at Nehru
Park.
North of Nehru Island a long causeway leads out into the lake from
the boulevard just off its end is "Kotar Khana", the
'house of pigeons', which was once a royal summer house.
The Bund
From above Zero Bridge to below Badshah Bridge one can walk along
the banks of the Jhelum River on the popular footpath known as the
bund. It's a pleasant relaxing place to stroll along and many
Doonga houseboats can be seen beside it. The GPO, the government
handicrafts emporium and a string of handicraft shops are all
close beside the Bund.
Shri Pratap Singh Museum
The Shri Pratap Singh museum is in Lal Mandi, just south of the
river between zero bridge and Amira Kadal. It has an interesting
collection of exhibits relevant to Kashmir including illustrated
tiles excavated near Harwan.
The museum is open from 10.00 am to 5.00 pm except on Wednesdays
when it is closed and admission is free.
MUGHAL GARDENS
Kashmir
was a favourite of the Mughal emperors who visited it as often as
they could. Cool and refreshing after the plains of North India
where the business of governance kept them, they planted gardens
with stepped terraces and flowing watercourses. When they rested
in their gardens, they dreamt they were in paradise.
The next garden along the road that encircles the Dal is the
Nishat, built by empress Nur Jahan's brother Asaf Khan. The
largest of the gardens, Nishat has several terraces, a central
watercourse and a majestic site between the Dal and the Zabarwan
hills.
The third Mughal garden - the Shalimar - was planted by Jehangir,
the Mughal emperor, whose love for Kashmir was legendary. Shaded
by magnificent Chinar trees, the Shalimar is a series of stone
pavilions and flowing water with paint box bright flowerbeds.
SHALIMAR
BAGH
T
he
Shalimar were built by Emperor Jehangir for his wife Nur Jahan,
'light of the world' in 1616. Although it is known today as the
'garden of love' it was originally named the Farah Bakhsh or
'delightful garden'.
The garden is built in four terraces with traditional water
channel running down the middle. The gardens measure 540 by 183
metres. During the Mughal period the top terraces used be reserved
for the emperor and the ladies of the court and was the most
magnificent. It included a pavilion made of black stone in the
middle of the tank. Black Marble fluted pillars supported the
pavilion, which was used as a banquet hall.
Shalimar Bagh has an air of seclusion and repose, and its rows of
fountains and shaded trees seem to recede towards the snowcapped
mountains. A Son Et Lumeiere or sound and light show is put on
here every evening during the May to October tourist season.
PARIMAHAL
The old Sufi college of Pari Mahal, the 'palace of the
fairies', is only a short distance above the Chasma Shahi gardens.
One can easily walk from the gardens up to the Pari Mahal then
follow a footpath directly down the hill to the road that runs by
the Oberoi Palace Hotel. The Pari Mahal consists of a series of
arched terraces. Recently it has been turned into a very pleasant
and well-kept garden with fine views over Dal Lake. It's
attractively sited on a spur of the Zabarwan Mountains. The
gardens are beautifully kept even today and a Son Et Lumiere show
is put on here every evening during the May to October tourist
season.
NISHAT
BAGH
The Nishat Bagh is another lovely garden with its 12 terraces
representing the 12 signs of the zodiac, which descend gradually
and seem to almost merge into the lake. It is situated on the
banks of world famous Dal Lake in the backdrop of Zabarwan hills.
With its flowerbeds, trees, fountains, the Nishat presents a
dramatic sight. The gardens were designed in 1633 by Asaf Khan,
brother of Nur Jahan, and follow the same pattern as the Shalimar
gardens with a polished stone channel running down the centre and
a series of terraces.
It's the largest of the Mughal gardens measuring 548 metres by 338
metres, and often the most crowed. The walks beside the channel
are bordered with lines of cypresses and Chinars. Also found
within its vicinity are some remains of Mughal period buildings
including a double storey pavilion enclosed on two sides latticed
windows.
Directly behind the garden is the Gopi Tirth, a small spring
gushing forth crystal clear water, which feeds the garden water.
CHASMA SHAHI
Cheshma Shahi is the first Mughal garden one will pass after Nehru
Park. Built at a height above the city, its views are as
stupendous as its layout. The smallest of Srinagar's Mughal
gardens, Cheshma Shahi has only three terraces in addition to a
natural spring of water enclosed in a stone pavilion.
Smallest of the Srinagar Mughal gardens, measuring just 108 metres
by 38 metres, the Chasma Shahi, or 'Royal Spring', are well up the
hillside, above the Nehru Memorial Park. The fresh water spring in
these pleasant, quieter gardens is reputed to have medicinal
properties.
The gardens were laid out in 1632 by Ali Mardan Khan and include
three terraces, an aqueduct, waterfalls and fountains. The water
from the spring supplies the fountains and then goes through the
floor of the pavilion and falls to the lower terrace in a fine
cascade of five metres, over a polished black stone chute.
Some extensions have recently been made to the gardens. Like all
the gardens the Chasma Shahi is open from sunrise to sunset but
unlike the other gardens this is the only one, which charges
admission. There is a small shrine, the Chasma Sahibi, near the
gardens, which also has a fresh water spring