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The
trek from Pahalgam to Amarnathji cave is on an ancient peregrine
route. The 45 - km distance is covered in four days, with night
halts at Chandanwari, Sheshnag (Wawjan) and Panchtarni. The
distance from Pahalgam to Chandanwari (16 km) is now covered by
motor transport. The pilgrims camp here or at Pahalgam on the
first night out. The first day's trek of 13 km from Chandanwari is
through spectacular, primeval countryside. The main centre of
attraction on this trek is Sheshnag, a mountain lake which derives
its name from its seven peaks, resembling the heads of a mythical
snake. The journey to Sheshnag follows steep inclines up the right
bank of a cascading stream and wild scenery untouched by
civilisation.
The second night's camp at Wawjan overlooks the deep blue water of
Sheshnag lake, and glaciers beyond it. The lake is also associated
with legends of love and revenge, and at the camp these are
recounted by campfires, to the stillness of a pine-scented,
Himalayan night.
Trek:
Pahalgam
To Amarnath Cave Via Mahagunas Pass
Main Trek Base:
Altitude: 4,175m (13,700ft).
Duri ng
the yatra, stages of the walk are carefully controlled by the
Indian authorities. The first stage of the trek is to Chandanwadi,
the second to Sheshnag and the third over the Mahagunas Pass to
Panchtami. Many pilgrims visit the cave from Panchtami and return
to Sheshnag the same day, walking back to Pahalgam on the fifth
day.
Day
1: Pahalgam To Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 4 hours)
The trail leaves Pahalgam on a bitumen road, past the Shankar
temple and along the east Liddar valley. The trail is easy to
follow indeed it is suitable for jeeps as far as Chandanwadi
(2,900m). There are many obvious short cuts on the route, and a
number of tea stalls, as this first Day always seems to be quite
hot. The campsite is in a pleasant glade just before the main line
of tea stalls.
Day 2: Chandanwadi To Sheshnag
(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)
From Chandanwadi the trail winds steeply for 500m to the summit of
ridge known as Pisu Top (3,390m). From here, there are commanding
views back down the valley to the mountains beyond Pahalgam.
During the main pilgrimage, the tea stall owners do a thriving
business, which keeps the pilgrims going on the long incline to
the next main resting area at Wawajana (3,550m). From here it is
two to three km further to Sheshnag (3,720m). The glacial lake is
set in remarkable surroundings, its waters reflecting the snow
capped peaks of Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma. Rumour among pilgrims
has it that the lake is inhabited by a serpent of Loch Ness
monster proportions, so it's advisable not to camp too close to
the water's edge.
Day 3: Sheshnag To Panchtarni
(Average walking time 6 hours)
The trail gradually ascends from Sheshnag with magnificent views
of the mountains immediately above. The ascent towards the
Mahagunas Pass winds up to a grassy plateau, and from there on to
the pass it is a further hour's climb. The sign at the top of the
pass states the height as 4,270m. It is not a dramatic pass, but
it is still no mean achievement for the pilgrims, many of whom
have never been beyond the Indian plains before.
The descent to Panchtarni (3,450m) is quite long and tiring, but
there are frequent flowered meadows to rest in and admire. The
campsite can be seen from afar; and behind, on a further ridge,
the bare, treeless mountainscape resembles the terrain on the far
side of the Himalayas. There are more spacious campsites upstream
from the main camping area, and these are also a little cleaner.
Day 4: Panchtarni To Amarnath Cave & Return
(Average walking time 5 hours return)
The
actual time to the cave will depend on whether one's trek
coincides with the main pilgrimage. During the pilgrimage an early
start is essential, with many of the pilgrims move more steadily
and slowly than on the rest of the trek, as if in awe of their
surroundings.
The climb to the Singh Pass (3,850m) is gradual before the trail
enters the Amarnath valley. It descends to a permanently blackened
snow bridge, which fords the Amarvati stream before ascending the
true right back to the base of the mountain. From here the final
ascent is up a series of concrete steps to the entrance to the
Amarnath Cave (4,050m). The J&K police manning the entrance to
the cave only permit a limited number of pilgrims inside at any
one time.
Day 5: Panchtarni To Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 8 hours)
Many pilgrims return from Panchtarni to Chandanwadi in one day.
After completing their pilgrimage to the cave most are happy to
trek as far as they can the following Day.
Day 6: Chandanwadi To Pahalgam
(Average walking time 4 hours)
On the final Day most pilgrims arrive back in the Pahalgam bazaar
with enough time to complete the drive to Srinagar or Jammu the
same day.
Amarnath
Yatra Trekking from Pahalgam
Amarnath
Yatra -Trekking from Sonamarg via Baltal
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